Not Tonight Honey

"Honey, I have a headache" is a given in these parts. But because I almost never get headaches I didn't think much about altitude sickness, even after a half dozen or so conversations with people who suffered the malady. Not even when Mary, a Spanish teacher from Pennsylvania sitting next to me on the early morning LAN Air flight that descends into Cuzco, Peru says, "Man, the pilot doesn't have to drop down much to make a landing here."

Cuzco rooftops behind Hotel Monestario

Tucked into an Andean valley at 11,000 feet, this antique city boasts a half million people and among them, Carlos a native Cusquenian who works at the Hotel Monasterio figures that headaches are a standard mode of operation: "Especially when I go to higher altitudes," he says.

My friend Tom anticipated the possibility of headaches so he booked the first three of our 24 nights in Peru at the Monasterio. Three days of glorious pampering and acclimating. This is especially prudent because the hotel's driver snags us instantly at the airport, amidst the chaos of taxi drivers hawking rides: One headache saved. The trip is quick to the heart of Old Town and Hotel Monastario, built in 1595 on the site of the Palace of Inca Amaru Qhata. It is a national landmark. It's also one of the few hotels in the world that infuses its rooms with oxygen-enriched air to help temper the impact of altitude sickness.

My first clue that I'm getting high is not a headache, but rather the slowly developing loss of balance--an unnerving problema in the land of mountains and Machu Picchu. After a cup of coca tea I feel absolutely airheaded, almost like I'm about to fall off the chair--time for an oxygen-enriched room.

Paititi hidden in stone galleries at Plaza de Armas

Four hours of sleep and no food since 9 a.m. sends us scouting into the evening air and through the plethora of narrow, cobble-stone streets and open-air plazas. We find Paititi, a fine little pizzaria hidden in ancient stone galleries across from the Plaza de Armas. Fausto, the owner, informs us Paititi is an Incan city that has been pursued by many, but found by none. The wine and pizza is a lifesaver; Fausto a true gentleman, who wishes us many more Paititis on our Andean adventures.

Tom in search of oxygen

Then Tom announces what we need to search for most is oxygen: He has a headache.